Podgorica at the Market

Open daily, Podgorica’s “Big Market” (commonly known as Velika Pijaca) offers the largest variety of fruits and vegetables that is available citywide. With the addition of separate rooms for cheese vendors, egg vendors, and fish vendors, this market serves as Podgorica’s retail hub of foodstuffs that are locally produced (note: there is also a section dedicated to meat vendors, but as of this post these rooms appear to be under renovation). 

market stand from above

Set in an enormous hall with a vaulted ceiling, the Big Market is clean, brightly lit, and very orderly. With wide aisles between vendors, and many types of produce grouped together, customers can peruse the market stands with great ease and efficiency. For those interested in a quick bite to eat, a coffee, or a beer, there are a number of cafes located on the second floor, overlooking the produce market below. All along the outside edge of the second floor, more permanent establishments overflow with durable goods, shoes, tools, kitchenware, and clothing of all sorts (w/ an inordinate number of stalls selling flower patterned women’s underwear).

view from the second floor

view from the ground floor

Podgorica’s Big Market is located on Bulevar Save Kovačevića, in the direction of Virpazar and Skadar Lake. From the main train/bus station you can reach the market in under 5 minutes on foot, from the city center, walking to the market takes closer to 10 minutes. Get there by taxi from anywhere in the city for under 2 euros.

Although fresh fruits and vegetables dominate the main floor, several stands also sell nuts (especially walnuts), dried beans and figs, pickled vegetables (cabbage, peppers), and honey. The back wall is dominated by flower stands, and adjacent to the main entrance a burek stand attracts continual patronage.

Of several notable absences, especially in the realm of (bulk) prepared foods, there are no baked goods of any sort. This may be attributable, in part, to the wealth of bakeries (mostly  bread) that dot street corners throughout the city. Interestingly, whereas in the US and other European cities cafes often have a sizable selection of sweet pastries on offer, here in Podgorica savory pastries dominate. 

Like any good market, one of the greatest draws of the Podgorica’s Big Market is its comparatively low prices. (Curiously, although, both broccoli (at 1.50 euro/head) and pears carry a significantly higher price than most other fruits and vegetables.) As a rule of thumb, for items for which the price is advertised, bargaining is uncommon (except when making bulk purchases).

Price Index (11/2/08): mandarines = 0.60 euro/kilo; assorted peppers = 0.80 euro/kilo; red potatos = 0.80 euro/kilo; carrots = 1 euro/kilo; beets = 1 euro/kilo; swiss chard = 0.80 euro/kilo

Pictured above: today’s bounty!

Please check back as this post will be updated with more information about Podgorica’s Big Market as seasons change. Additionally, as an addendum to this post, a short commentary about Podgorica’s Small Market (Mala Pijaca) is forthcoming.  As always, suggestions and comments about this post are welcome.

Note: A quick Google search turned up an explanation for the enormous construction project that is currently ongoing in the lot adjacent to the Big Market. Apparently, the market will soon be connected to a larger complex of buildings that together will constitute “The Mall of Montenegro.” The mall will complement the existing market with higher end retail stores. Read more about the project here: http://www.mallofmontenegro.com

Update: 12/6/08

Braving the rain today I made one more walk over to Velika Pijaca before I move across town to a flat much closer to Mala Pijaca tomorrow. The above picture gives you an idea of the size of the future Mall of Montenegro, and suggests that the mall isn’t going to open its doors any time soon. To the left of this view, just out of site in this image, is the location of the produce market.

I also realized that anyone wishing to visit Velika Pijaca it would be useful to post a picture of the market from the outside. Admittedly, the building that houses the Velika Pijaca doesn’t scream “PRODUCE MARKET.” When I first arrived in Podgorica I walked straight by this building in search of the market.

In grey-concrete-everything Stari Aerodrom, these children’s depictions of items sold inside Velika Pijaca is a welcomed site. I only hope that once the Mall of Montenegro goes live these murals are not discarded.